1.Winter Hive Arrangement
The overall requirement for wintering hives is to maintain a suitable bee density for clustering, with honey frames organized neatly and shallow brown (frames that have been used for over a year and have reared brood several times).
(1)Single Queen Wintering
Generally, place 2–3 lighter honey frames in the center, with 1–2 larger frames on each side. In colder regions, you can reduce the hive size and widen the bee pathway, using all large honey frames inside and widening the pathway to 15 mm, allowing bees to fill the pathway down to the bottom frames.
(2)Double Queen Wintering
Place a partition in the center of the hive, with two lighter honey frames on each side of the partition. The pathway or space between the partition and the frames should be larger, with heavier honey frames on the outside. This arrangement allows the two smaller clusters to unite on either side of the partition, forming a larger cluster, which helps with winter insulation and spring egg-laying by the queen.
(3)Super Wintering
For strong colonies with 8 frames or more, place large honey frames in the super and smaller or empty frames in the main hive. The bee cluster will initially form between the main hive and the super, gradually moving into the super as honey is consumed.
2.Internal Insulation
During winter, provide appropriate insulation inside the hive based on the region and colony strength. Generally, place insulation boards outside the honey frames, with insulating materials like straw or cotton on the outer side. Cover with several sheets of moisture-absorbing paper or cloth, and then add materials like straw mats or cotton pads. Ensure the hive cover is secure, and seal any gaps in the hive.
3.Outdoor Wintering Insulation
For colonies wintering outdoors, wrap the hive for insulation after the ground freezes. Choose a sheltered, sunny, and relatively dry location. Typically, wrap the sides and back of the hive with straw mats, place straw under the hive, and depending on the temperature, add straw or mats on top and behind the hive. In regions where winter temperatures do not drop below -15°C, the front of the hive may remain unwrapped. If temperatures drop below -15°C, only leave the entrance open for ventilation and wrap the front with straw mats. In harsh winters, further insulation can be enhanced using snow or soil. Proper outdoor winter management helps prevent suffocation, diarrhea, reduces feed consumption, lowers mortality, and allows for rapid spring population growth. Currently, outdoor wintering is also commonly used in severe cold regions.
4.Indoor Wintering
Once outdoor temperatures start to freeze, place the hives indoors on stands at least 40 cm off the ground. Typically, three layers of hives are stacked, with strong colonies at the bottom and weaker ones at the top. Maintain indoor temperatures between -4°C and 4°C, with relative humidity at 75%–85%, ensuring the environment remains dark and quiet.
5.Management of Wintering Colonies
Wintering colonies need attention to both insulation and air circulation to prevent suffocation; generally, it's better to be cold than warm. The entrance should be slightly larger or longer and lower, except for colonies in supers. On the side without the bee cluster, lift a corner of the cover cloth or paper on the mesh covering the back corner of the hive for ventilation. Once the wintering hives are arranged, maintain colony quietness and avoid unnecessary hive inspections. On sunny days, shade the colony using wooden strips or cotton to prevent bees from being stimulated by sunlight and flying out to freeze.
Every ten days or so in winter, beekeepers should use wire hooks to remove dead bees from the hive bottom to prevent blockage at the entrance. Observe each hive externally, listening for the sounds of the bee cluster and checking for moisture inside and outside the entrance. Inspect dead bees for bloating or dampness to determine if the colony has suffered from freezing, suffocation, or indigestion.